Cartagena

We arrived in Cartagena, Colombia a couple days ago and it's been a blast. It is a fascinating city, one whose historical importance is not properly emphasized by the history books it seems, maybe because it lies in a country that has been considered too dangerous for tourists.

In the centuries before the Panama Canal was constructed, thus rerouting practically all traffic between the world's two great oceans through its concrete walls, this city was the departure point for the riches of the New World on their way to Spain. Back when the U.S. was a minor colony of the British Empire, unimaginable quantities of gold, silver, and many other minerals and precious substances wound their way up through the Andes to Cartagena, which has the nickname of "Gateway to the Americas," where it was put on fleets of Spanish galleons for the trip to the metropolis.

The stories of the attacks on this city are amazing. The French and the English always coveted the Spanish possessions in the New World, and when it proved too difficult and costly to take entire colonies, they settled for capturing its fruits. Sir Francis Drake, who the Spanish call a pirate but the English think of as a national hero, invaded the city on his world tour of Spanish colonies, during which he held numerous cities ransom with the help of a large fleet and well-trained army.

The legend says that Drake walked into an abandoned Cartagena and, upon entering the governor's office and finding a letter warning the city of the "pirate" Francis Drake, became enraged and ordered the destruction of the cathedral, which had been under construction for years. Apparently even pirates have some pride.

But that's enough history.

Today the city is a really vibrant place. It has so many influences - the Caribbean flair, the South American richness, the Andean melancholy - all played out on the pervasive Spanish backdrop. It's a city that's hard to define, lying at the borders of so many cultural and geographic regions. But this diversity, as it always does, gives it great depth and complexity.

I'm staying in the old town now, a wonderful little maze of ancient houses, bouganvillea-covered balconies, and exquisite little squares. It's the kind of place that's easy to get lost in, yet somehow you don't care. Unlike in many other Latin American cities, the historical center is still functional here, with businesses and commerce and pedestrians lending it an energy that is hard to ignore. The street vendors are assertive but not aggressive, which is nice, and despite the strong tourist atmosphere it's easy to find restaurants and shops that are authentically local.

We'll see what happens.